2009 - July 25 (Baku)

Landing at Baku was the best experience I have had in any of my visits there. I got through the entire landing, visa, passport, baggage pickup, and customs in only 20 minutes. My driver was waiting for me outside when I left customs. I have no idea what has changed, but the long lines, the grafters, and the general disorganization I experienced in the past was gone. I even had a man from passport control check my documents while I was still in line waiting and he told me to go on through after looking them over. No problems.


My driver told me that, due to the world-wide concerns of swine flu, I would have to get a flu check at office. He took my by there, where a company doctor was waiting for me (on a Sunday). He checked my vitals, checked my travel history, and even offered to get me Tamiflu for my upcoming trips to Mexico. Very nice of him.

On the drive to my hotel I noticed that the city is building again. The driver says ther are not really affected by economic downturn. After all, where could they go but up? At the hotel, they knew I was coming and had papers ready. However, there was no sign of Mr. Big. It seems he is no longer a major influence in activities in the hotel or surrounding area. This may be indicative of an overall change in the distribution of power in the government and in the improvement in the law enforcement system. Organized crime, especially vice, is still strong, but not as “in-your-face” as I saw in previous visits. I spent the afternoon walking the streets. The crowds were heavy with a general rude indifference to each other. Yet many signs of affection were visible between friends. Many people were holding hands, kissing, and that includes couples, women, and men. I stopped to have pizza at "Pizza Inn" - forget brand copyright here. That didn’t matter. The pizza was good and had a thin crust, good cheese, and fresh toppings. I was happy sitting on the outdoor patio in front of the restaurant. The weather was in the low 80’s and there was a good breeze. It was really pleasant. I watched acres of tall, well-built, dark-haired men go by. I think I have died and gone to voyeur heaven. But it is all normal Azerbaijani custom. Nothing gay about this at all as I have been told to understand. And I see that the City Club was still open. That was where I was an impromptu bouncer on my last visit. Also open is Beh-Beh, the Azeri restaurant. I hope to go to both this week.

Ok, rethink personal interactions in this neighborhood. I am now seeing groups of three to five guys kissing each other. And caressing of faces is just NOT a man-man interaction. The two guys seemed just friends, but one did have a very fashionable Louis Vitton shoulder bag. This is getting suspicious. And the arm-in-arm bit was just cultural until I saw two entwined guys walking with a couple of other guys and saw one of the two grab one of the other two guys by the tit. I believe I am in the Baku Castro district. And no one cares! I am now certain that I have died and gone to cruising heaven. Too bad I'm so old. The most common T-shirt logo: No Girlfriend, No Problem. Think it could have other meanings?

Seeing this previous entry, I think some of you may tire of this particular blog segment. Please feel free to stop if it makes you uncomfortable. I write it like I see (and feel) it. You have been warned.

Off to bed and first day of work tomorrow…..